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1970 Ford Mustang - Modified

1970 Ford Mustang

Ford Mustang 1970 technical specifications

Condition: Used
Item location: Highland, Maryland, United States
Make: Ford
Model: Mustang
Type: Hardtop
Trim: Base Hardtop 2-Door
Year: 1970
Mileage: 20,000
Engine size: 5.0L 4950CC 302Cu. In. V8 GAS OHV Naturally Aspirated
Number of cylinders: 8
Fuel: Gasoline
Drive type: U/K
Vehicle Title: Clear
You are interested? Contact the seller!

Description

1970 Mustang Coupe, odified, ydraulic tilt front end, or show, oad race scheme. For sale to pay medical bills!

The Build and current condition:

The car was completely disassembled and placed on a rotating stand for the repairs and modification. It has been fully assembled after the modification to check for fit, hen disassembled again for painting. After the underside was painted it was removed from the stand and final assembly started. At this point I ran out of time to complete the car.

As of right now the engine and drive train is installed and the car will roll on its wheels. I have the car on wheel dollies to make it easier to move around the garage. It can be rolled onto a trailer or roll back for transporting.

Engine:

302 cubic inch, 030 over, VO aluminum heads from Ford Racing, arland and Sharp rockers, -5/8” equal length headers, olley 750 dbl., ” exhaust, riffith aluminum radiator mounts in a slant position, eady for air conditioning if you want, ew chrome air conditioning compressor included. trunk mounted battery tray. Parts and mounting hardware for serpentine belt setup or V belt setup.

Transmission and Rear:

Doug Nash / Richmond Gear 5 speed racing transmission, 5th gear is 1to1, ot overdrive), ” ford 28 spline posi rear end with 3.24 gear ratio, ould use a 3.05 for more top end speed but it is unreal in first gear with the 3.24 rear.

Fuel System:

24 Gallon fuel cell, teel fuel cell holder, uel Competition Products fuel pumps and filters mounted in the trunk. Holly 750 double pumper.

Front and Rear Suspension:

Front - Custom built front end, lobal west upper A arms, oil over racing shocks, print car style sway bar, and made lower A arms with spherical bearings. Stock lower A arms will fit if desired. See pictures. Rear – Global West Rear leaf springs with half anti twist traction leaf built in. Global West Delrin/aluminum bushings. Welded in sub frame connectors. Steel belly pans welded in to the underside. New frame parts.

Frame and Body:

Custom built square tube front end, ustom built full roll cage, ew torque boxes on left and right side, ew floor pans on left and right side, elded in sub frame connectors, ustom sheet metal belly pans, ustom made seat mounts, ustom rear wheel wells, ew door skins, ew door hing bushings. The tilt front end was fabricated from stock parts cut and welded together. Everything has been test fitted.

Rain channel have been removed around the door and extensions welded in place. The cars roof looks lowered because of this but it is not. All rust was removed during the restoration and all new metal was installed were needed. All interior sheet meta was treated with Zintex and then painted with a Zink based metal etching primer. Underside and engine compartment are painted with a clear coat base coat. Exhaust hanger brackets were welded to the frame during the modification so no through holes in the body for exhaust mounting. All other holes in the under body have been welded welded shut.

Know items that you will need to complete or fabricate:

Interior – 95% of the front half of the interior will work but you will need to notch the NEW front dash (included) board around the roll bar. The rear seat area will need to be fabricated. My idea was to fill it with stereo speakers and have just the 2 front seats. The (new) headliner should still fit with no modification and is include. Electronic door lock kit is included but needs to be installed. Notice the car has no door handles on the exterior. As the doors unlock they will pop open a little, rab the edge to open the door. Trunk lid – Again modified with no exterior locks the trunk is raised and lowered with a electric motor. You will need to complete the latch fabrication.

Front end – Hydraulic front end is complete except for a solenoid or cable run to the latch system and interconnected to the tilt switch. The front end uses 1970 convertible hydraulics and pump to operate the tilt front end. I have 2 sets of hydraulics’s, ne set is new in box. I used an old set for testing. 95% of the plumbing is hard lines. The hard lines are all fabricated and have been test fitted, eady to mount. You will need 4 short (a few inches long) flex lines to connect to the hard lines to the hydraulic cylinders. The front end has been tested and works great! I am very proud of the design. The entire front end removes frome the frame with only 2 pins for easy front end access.

Everything else – You can take the rest of the build as far as you want. I had planned on Bear Claw disk brakes all around but I have the stock front disk, ear drum brakes if that is what you want. Wheels and tires, aint and some work.

The engine,trans,rear combo was absolutely fantastic when it was removed from the road to do the modifications. The only change I have made was the upgraded exhaust. I had smaller headers and exhaust before. These new headers and the 3” pipe should allow the SVO heads to really breath!

All parts plus extra's are included, nterior, lass, riginal dash, EM air conditioning dash, eats, xtra parts of all kinds. Everything is packed into the car and ready to ship.



On Jul-25-15 at 18:28:29 PDT, eller added the following information:

1970 Mustang Coupe, odified, ydraulic tilt front end, or show, oad race scheme. For sale to pay medical bills!

The Build and current condition:

The car was completely disassembled and placed on a rotating stand for the repairs and modification. It has been fully assembled after the modification to check for fit, hen disassembled again for painting. After the underside was painted it was removed from the stand and final assembly started. At this point I ran out of time to complete the car.

As of right now the engine and drive train and suspension are installed and the car will roll on its wheels. I have the car on wheel dollies to make it easier to move around the garage. It can be rolled onto a trailer or roll back for transporting.

The last couple of pictures (older looking photo's) were taken during the test fitting of components before the car was placed back on the rotating stand for final finish and underside painting.

Engine:

302 cubic inch, 030 over, VO aluminum heads from Ford Racing, arland and Sharp rockers, -5/8” equal length headers, olley 750 dbl., ” exhaust, riffith aluminum radiator mounts in a slant position, eady for air conditioning if you want, ew chrome air conditioning compressor included. trunk mounted battery tray. Parts and mounting hardware for serpentine belt setup or V belt setup.

Transmission and Rear:

Doug Nash / Richmond Gear 5 speed racing transmission, 5th gear is 1to1, ot overdrive), ” ford 28 spline posi rear end with 3.24 gear ratio, ould use a 3.05 for more top end speed but it is unreal in first gear with the 3.24 rear.

Fuel System:

24 Gallon fuel cell, teel fuel cell holder, uel Competition Products fuel pumps and filters mounted in the trunk. Holly 750 double pumper.

Front and Rear Suspension:

Front - Custom built front end, lobal west upper A arms, oil over racing shocks, print car style sway bar, and made lower A arms with spherical bearings. Stock lower A arms will fit if desired. See pictures. Rear – Global West Rear leaf springs with half anti twist traction leaf built in. Global West Delrin/aluminum bushings. Welded in sub frame connectors. Steel belly pans welded in to the underside. New frame parts.

Frame and Body:

Custom built square tube front end, ustom built full roll cage, ew torque boxes on left and right side, ew floor pans on left and right side, elded in sub frame connectors, ustom sheet metal belly pans, ustom made seat mounts, ustom rear wheel wells, ew door skins, ew door hing bushings. The tilt front end was fabricated from stock parts cut and welded together. Everything has been test fitted.

Rain channel have been removed around the door and extensions welded in place. The cars roof looks lowered because of this but it is not. All rust was removed during the restoration and all new metal was installed were needed. All interior sheet meta was treated with Zintex and then painted with a Zink based metal etching primer. Underside and engine compartment are painted with a clear coat base coat. Exhaust hanger brackets were welded to the frame during the modification so no through holes in the body for exhaust mounting. All other holes in the under body have been welded welded shut.

Know items that you will need to complete or fabricate:

Interior – 95% of the front half of the interior will work but you will need to notch the NEW front dash (included) board around the roll bar. The rear seat area will need to be fabricated. My idea was to fill it with stereo speakers and have just the 2 front seats. The (new) headliner should still fit with no modification and is include. Electronic door lock kit is included but needs to be installed. Notice the car has no door handles on the exterior. As the doors unlock they will pop open a little, rab the edge to open the door. Trunk lid – Again modified with no exterior locks the trunk is raised and lowered with a electric motor. You will need to complete the latch fabrication.

Front end – Hydraulic front end is complete except for a solenoid or cable run to the latch system and interconnected to the tilt switch. The front end uses 1970 convertible hydraulics and pump to operate the tilt front end. I have 2 sets of hydraulics’s, ne set is new in box. I used an old set for testing. 95% of the plumbing is hard lines. The hard lines are all fabricated and have been test fitted, eady to mount. You will need 4 short (a few inches long) flex lines to connect to the hard lines to the hydraulic cylinders. The front end has been tested and works great! I am very proud of the design. The entire front end removes frome the frame with only 2 pins for easy front end access.

Everything else – You can take the rest of the build as far as you want. I had planned on Bear Claw disk brakes all around but I have the stock front disk, ear drum brakes if that is what you want. Wheels and tires, aint and some work.

The engine,trans,rear combo was absolutely fantastic when it was removed from the road to do the modifications. The only change I have made was the upgraded exhaust. I had smaller headers and exhaust before. These new headers and the 3” pipe should allow the SVO heads to really breath!

All parts plus extra's are included, nterior, lass, riginal dash, EM air conditioning dash, eats, xtra parts of all kinds. Everything is packed into the car and ready to ship.


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