2002 Chrysler Sebring LX Convertible Great Runner and BRAND NEW COMPLETE TOP

Selling our 2002 Sebring LX Convertible here which has been adult driven and well maintained. Clean overall per the photos and is ready to be a daily driver or fun summer car or both. History on the car is that I purchased it in October 2011 from a dealer here in Chicago area, t had come in on trade. Bought it with 116,000 miles on it and in the interim 4+ years have put just another 40k on the car, o just a little under 10k miles per year. I purchased the Sebring for fun, or me, ut gave it to my college daughter to drive over the last 9 months or so. We thought she might be in the car for another year or more but then an amazing thing happened...she secured an actual adult full time (paying) job upon graduation next month, o she went ahead with buying her first new car...so the Sebring became available and I decided to offer it for sale. Over the years we have bought and sold several cars through Ebay and we've always had a good experience on both ends as both buyer and seller. As seller we've always represented a car very accurately, s best and openly as we possibly were able, nd I think you'll see that the Ebay feedback demonstrates that.
What I know and can document about the car:
First, 'm guessing the AutoCheck or CarFax will show an accident in December 2014. It was extremely minor. A nursing home shuttle bus slowly...slowly!...backed up into the Sebring's left front quarter panel. The shuttle bus won. Left front quarter couldn't be worked out/repaired so it was replaced in its entirety which of course was preferable anyway to a body shop trying to fix it and never get it right. I believe you'll see this show up on CarFax because it was an at-fault accident by the nursing home and their insurance paid for the repairs, o I just wanted to be clear that you don't have to be scared off if you see "collision" repair on a report. I can document the exact damages, e even have the photos somewhere...it was a parked car, mph fender crunch, hat's it.
(ok after uploading the auction listing here, read the AutoCheck report Ebay provides. it's got a weird error in it. if you look at the accident reported in Dec 2014, here are two accidents reported on the same day, ne in New York and one in Illinois. it's reported incorrectly. the vehicle, s described above, as parked and backed into by another vehicle on ONLY the Sebring's left front quarter. that was the ONLY damage and only impact point. i have no clue how that got reported as a "left front" impact in the "NY" entry and then, ncorrectly, s a "rear" event on the IL entry on the same date. it's ridiculous. i'm happy to provide the actual police report, arrative, otes, ecords, nd photos from that date. the car was parked in Bloomington, L, nd that's where the fender damage occured. the INSURANCE COMPANY for the nursing home bus that hit the car, heir insurer was located in NY state. hate to harp on this too much, ut i feel it's important that bidders understand this is not a car that's been smashed around in collision(s)/multiple...this is a weird error on AutoCheck's part. the exact police report they reference, have my copy of...it entirely contradicts what AutoCheck reported it as)
Mechanicals:
The car runs wonderfully. It starts perfectly, here are no check engine lights/issues, t runs smoothly whether 90 degrees outside or 0 degrees. It idles correctly, uns with no chop, o misses, o struggle for power, o BS. It just runs really well and you'll see that easily when you drive it. Fuel economy is great. Transmission shifts through the gears smoothly and at correct speeds/intervals. No slip, o noise, gain no BS. Some work we have performed while we've had the car (and most of this of course are just things you expect to happen on any 10+ year old car)...all of this is documented, have receipts, tc:
* Oil changes always at the correct intervals, 000 miles* Coolant leak in 2013 turned out to be a bad water outlet housing, o the housing and hoses were replaced, ooling system flushed, nd the intake/plenum gaskets replaced* Spark plugs and Ignition Coil / Boot Kit Nov 2013. This plus above repair totaled $674.* Replace both rear struts and mounting assemblies. Where the rear strut connects up into the car's body, he mounts are know for rotting out over time or just breaking from wear. We had one fail so I replaced both entire assemblies in June 2014, epair totaled $755.* Oil Pressure/Sending Unit started going bad, eplaced in Sep 2012, otaled $165.* Replaced Fuel Pump, ut Chrysler dealer first disassembled/removed entire fuel tank and cleaned it out, einstalled clean fuel tank, ew pump installed, uel system induction service performed/fuel injectors professionally cleaned...Jan 2014, ork totaled $445.* Tires replaced at 122k miles so these tires have just over 30k on them but i believe they are 60 or 70k rated tires...they're in good shape and they have a lot of life left. All tires have lifetime / road hazard warranties.* Left front wheel bearing and hub replaced 2012 totaled $338.* Transmission power flush and service ie removed trans pan, leaned pan, eplaced filter and gaskets and replaced all trans fluid...Jan 2012 totaled $302.* Battery replaced March 2013
* The car does use some oil. Remember, t's got 156k miles on it, hey absolutely ALL use a bit of oil at this mileage, here are no exceptions out there. When I thought we might keep the car another year or two, decided in my mind that I would in all likelihood replace the valve cover gaskets. I did have the oil system dye tested about a year ago in early 2015 and they told me the car probably had its original factory valve cover gaskets and that they were starting to seep some oil. So as I said, f it was me, would replace them. Sometimes you can get a smell of some oil coming off the engine and sometimes you don't. The shop who dye tested it told me to expect that and just to be mindful to check the oil level every other tank of gas refilled. So that's what I've been doing. I never let it run truly low. Typically, y the time the car uses two tanks of gas, t's travelled about 600/650 miles, nd it will definitely take a half quart of oil to be added in over that period. I don't know how much it uses between oil changes, e during a 3,000 mile interval, nd I don't know that because I just be sure to top it off at short intervals as I described. I know this much, he car is not blowing oil-laden blue smoke out the exhaust, t's just not. I really believe that what it's losing is, s the tech advised me, argely or mostly seeping slowly out the valve covers. That's a fairly straightforward and not particularly expensive repair if you're inclined to do it. Otherwise, ou can carry a quart of oil in the trunk and just enjoy the car and check it and top it off as I've described...I've found this to be a cheap, asy way to just keep driving and enjoying a fun car.
Exterior / Body:
* Entire Convertible Top Replacement, rand new, ust completed in December 2015. The car had its original convertible top from the factory and it was just coming apart. Hired a professional auto trim shop/performance restoration pro locally to do the top, nd we didn't screw around and try to do it half assed, e ordered the correct parts and we did it 100% complete, eaning all the moving cables, ll the mounting hardware, he top materials, he new real glass (not that plastic garbage) rear heated window, nd the complete correct interior headliner. It's absolutely perfect now, t looks like brand new. Top motor/pump works perfectly, t goes up and down easily like it should and like you'll want it to. Convertible tops (done correctly) are not....cheap. I shopped around, nd I could have done this one a little bit cheaper but I wanted the confidence that it was done CORRECTLY. I'll share with you a receipt for over $1,500. It's just what it costs to do it right. So when you look at other Sebrings, hink seriously and long and hard about what you're potentially getting into with the part of the car which most of us most want to use and enjoy....with this one, can tell you that you will not have an issue with the top. No leaks. No Problems. It looks and operates like the car was just built. And we replaced the rear window defroster controller, oo. So the rear window melts snow and ice like it should (but like most used Sebrings don't).
* There is a crinkle in the metal high up on the right rear quarter panel. You can see it in the photos. In a 2015 windstorm a small tree came apart and got pushed into the quarter. It's a very workable area and I have a body shop estimate to repair it but honestly we just never got around to it. It wasn't a critical thing in my mind, t was just something I was planning on addressing and fixing this summer if I kept the car.
* After all these years, he predictable areas of a little surface rust began. You'll see the little area of paint bubbling up around the gas door on the left rear quarter, nd you'll see the very bottom of the driver's door showing minor surface rust too. These need to be caught soon if the new owner doesn't want them to rust entirely through. Or drive it as is and just enjoy it by scuffing the rust spots and spot/touch up painting them. Also a tiny 2" spot low on the drivers door. I think, verall, ery minor stuff for the car's age, nd all easily and fairly cheaply repairable, nd if you did these couple little things you'd have a very standup exterior. As it is today, ou'll find the photos to be accurate in the sense that the car is just overall very straight and looks pretty clean.
Interior:
Typically equipped...power steering, rakes, indows, ocks, eats...cruise works fine...radio and controls all work....original equipment, othing fancy/aftermarket. Missing passenger sun visor, e never had one and never cared much. Clean inside but not perfect. Cloth interior. Not smoked in, o real rips/tears/damage inside, ust the typical daily use type of wear and tear, hat's all. Dash is clean and not cracked, ame with instrument panel. I think everything works there. One instrument panel light bulb just went out, ust the bulb which illuminates the gas gauge area is all.
Emissions:
Illinois has a state mandated emissions/pollution control program. The car has been required to go through I think three times now since we've owned it. It's next due to be tested (i think) a year from now, pril 2017. It has passed no problem. Meaning, he stuff underneath which gets costly ie catalytic converters...they're operating within specs, t least according to the fine government of Illinois.
I don't want to give the car away for the first predictably lowball offer of the guy on the street. I have space to store it and I'm not inclined to move it out just to move it out. That being said, here's a fair price for the car based on the history I've shared above. I'm going to put what I think is a reasonably fair reserve price on the auction but I also don't necessarily want to answer a hundred emails about "hey what's your reserve price?"...that kind of entirely defeats the concept of the auction, n my opinion anyway. There are enough of these Sebrings out there that for the age and mileage anyone can see pretty readily that they go for (actually SELL for) anywhere from 1000 for the rusty abused poorly maintained buckets of unknowns, n up to 2800+ for the truly garage kept low mileage little old lady versions (which of course are increasingly super rare). This one is somewhere in between. It'll make someone a great fun driver and the solid history I've shared hopefully gives some confidence. Have I mentioned the absolutely perfect brand new convertible top......??

Questions welcome, lease ask and I'll respond immediately and as accurately as I can.
Obviously...no warranties or guarantees given nor implied here. Car is sold As-Is, o please bid accordingly, nd realistically, nd please do not bid if you intend to come out and walk around the car and "think about it". It takes time and effort to run the auction and to coordinate when people come out, tc, nd I absolutely will not wasted your time so please be considerate also of mine.
To thin out the always-predictable parade of Ebay flakes who bid then do not complete their purchase process, y terms are a 20% (of final auction price) deposit by PayPal within 24 hours of auction closing, nd payment in full with vehicle pickup within 7 days of auction closing. If you cannot abide those terms, lease do not even bid.
Thanks so much for your time, y apologies for the novel-length description, ut I just wanted to thoroughly share what I know and what I can document so bidders have as best a sense as possible about what they're bidding on.

On Mar-07-16 at 12:16:52 PST, eller added the following information:

** forgot....we also did front brakes, omplete, e rotors, alipers, ads, ardware, he whole thing, t 129k, his was $550. so these have just under 30k on them and i think the rotors could probably stand to be turned soon...however the entire front brakes are very recent and so you won't be looking at the expense of all the other hardware, ust the labor to turn the rotors which is probably a minimal one hour labor most places, 79-$99 something like that