1991 Volvo 240 Sedan 4-Door 2.3L NICE AND ROAD READY TO GO ANYWHERE!!!
1991 Volvo 240
Volvo 240 1991 technical specifications | |
---|---|
Condition: | Used |
Item location: | Bordentown, New Jersey, United States |
Make: | Volvo |
Model: | 240 |
Type: | Sedan |
Trim: | Base Sedan 4-Door |
Year: | 1991 |
Mileage: | 999,999 |
VIN: | YV1AA8845M1431564 |
Color: | Gold |
Engine size: | 2.3L 2316CC l4 GAS SOHC Naturally Aspirated |
Number of cylinders: | 4 |
Power options: | Air Conditioning, Power Locks, Power Windows |
Fuel: | Gasoline |
Transmission: | Automatic |
Drive type: | RWD |
Interior color: | Tan |
Options: | Sunroof, CD Player |
Vehicle Title: | Clear |
You are interested? | Contact the seller! |
Description |
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Auctiva's FREE Scrolling Gallery will enhance your listings.Well used but in very good condition for a car that's a quarter of a century old.
The links below are for YouTube videos that will tell you everything I miss here...
I've owned this car since Sept of 2013 and driven it a ton for all sorts of travel.
I commuted to NC from NJ at least five or six times in that period, ost recently about five weeks ago.
I used it as regular local transport all during that time.
I've driven it to NY and SC and PA and MA and other places I don't remember.
I've put two new tires on eight months ago (now on the rear) the fronts are about 65% good remaining.
I've replaced the alternator, alve cover gasket, gnition wires and tuned it in the last 12 months.
The end of the wiring harness attaching to the alternator has been redone.
The car has done more sitting than driving over the last seven months (hence why the tires on the rear still look close to new) but I've kept it up and it runs well up to 90 mph.
(You are NOT allowed to ask how I know that...)
Look at the pictures and the video links for complete
knowledge on condition and considerations.
Looks good, rives great for the age, ERY easy to maintain and that's why I own these often. (this would be my fourth)
If you're looking for a Volvo 240 to restore or just kick until it gives up the ghost, here's plenty to consider in this one.
I've been servicing and rebuilding diesel Mercedes of the early '80's, W's from the 70's and Volvo's from the '90's for three decades now and I use those three platforms because
they
a) last forever
b) are exceptional cars to restore or just drive cheaply and
c) they can be deeply enjoyed at almost any level of 'running well'
The mileage on this one is completely unknown to me because the odometer wasn't working when I bought it! That didn't bother me because this became one of a stable of seven cars we own for college kids and myself to 'tool around the USA' in.
I can tell you that I wouldn't hesitate to drive this thing across the USA today, t runs that well.
There is NO unusual oil loss or smoke from the tailpipe.
(1/2qt of oil low every TEN tankfuls...MAYBE??? Really sound oil consumer.)
There's AC but I've never used it. Expect a new condenser is needed but I didn't care to do. It does come on but the belts squeal too much for me to use without actually paying maintenance attention to. If I can't fix something completely I usually don't use that feature until I can.
MANUAL sunroof (which I love more than anything else on this car!) but the crank needs a little 'playing with it' to work perfectly...it ALWAYS works in both directions, ust needs fiddling with the crank (OR you can replace the crank mechanism...again, t didn't bother me this way.)
During a 'tightening' of the speaker mount in the passenger door, he switch wiring for the front passenger window must have been jostled because it isn't working by any switch at the moment. That motor is fine, t DID work before the speaker was remounted it's just going to take removal of the door liner to find where the connection is grounding/undone. All other motors, indows that I can think of here work to my recollection. There are heated seats but a kid left those ON one day last winter and it drained the battery to zero on a sub-20 degree day. I removed the fuse for that circuit once, eplaced it to find that they were left on once in the summer and have since removed it on a permanent basis. Those should come right back when the fuse is replaced but...and this probably should go as a 'caveat emptor' statement for the entire car...you are buying a Volvo that is 25 years old. If you know these cars, ou know the quality of this example just from the photos and videos. If you are expecting new or "nothing needed to make it as good as new" please do us both a favor and skip this auction altogether.
This car was listed a few months ago and the high bidder 'disappeared' so I just kept it and made it run even better for a few more months.
See the pictures, ee the video. Ask questions if there's more you need to know.
I will take PAYPAL if you need to make the "holding deposit" (50% of total cost) in the first 48 hours without picking up in person. If you pay the 50% immediately, 'll hold it for up to 10 days.
IF YOU PAY FOR THE WHOLE CAR VIA PAYPAL I'M GOING TO ADD 4% TO THE TOTAL FOR THEIR FEES. (It stinks that they charge what they do but they're the only game -- can you say "monopoly" -- in town via Ebay these days.)
IF YOU BID, IN and DON'T PAY it will end badly for you...very, ery badly. I've seen to that before and I kinda like doing it. I see it as a service to protecting others from lousy bidders in cyberspace. Don't bid if you don't already have the cash in your pocket. Just don't do it!
If you show up inside of 48 hours from the close of auction (or send your shipper inside that window and pay fully prior to them arriving) I'll just charge you the close price and the handling fee listed below ($25 to help cover the listing fees on Ebay)
There's my 'usual disclaimer' below but you already have all the information you need on this one...if you're looking for a good used car that repairs cheap and easy OR you're looking for a place to start a 240 restoration, ust press 'buy it now' or make an offer.
If you own it, ou'll consider yourself lucky. I always have.
First video : https://youtu.be/rkukkUIKeZY
Second video : https://youtu.be/oX82rEOoksc
Third video : https://youtu.be/4s_jmslwEOg
Night video : https://youtu.be/yLlLL26OBD0
and here's a video from the first listing a few months ago... https://youtu.be/Zb2yB1IbDhg
Do not pay before receiving the invoice!
We accept Paypal (and cash in person) from EVERYONE.
Due to Ebay restrictions, nly PAYPAL.
(a few greedy folks have ruined that for all the others...)
Enjoy the auction!
please do note:
I have been selling on Ebay for over twenty years. Yes, ince the very beginning. This is my third seller I.D. (due to security breaches each and every time...) and my ex-wife is still selling on one of my previous ebay accounts where we had over 3000 feedbacks alone! I have THOUSANDS of satisfied customers but you MUST know...
* I save time by using beautiful, risp, i-res photos.
** I will describe any damage or noteworthy issues as best as I can immediately upon noting any issue.
AND--
***We don't clean or try to 'doctor' any item. I have actually been berated (very early in my 'ebay career') for "ruining the patina" on a 100 year old lamp that I lightly wiped down before shipping it. How I find an item is how you will receive it. If it has indications of age, hether that be tarnish-rust-corrosion-or mold blooms, ou will receive it exactly that way in order for you to do as you wish from that point. THIS INCLUDES VEHICLES FROM MY GARAGE!
With the exception of some new items I sell which I have purchased for myself and later found I wouldn't or couldn't use, LL of my items are old. Those old items are from sales where almost everything being sold has long since been out of production or they have thought up another 40 (or 400) improvements since the item was originally sold. If you're like me, hat may be exactly WHY you are looking for the older version (or even the 'original' version) of something. They usually work better AND are easier to fix and keep working longer! My house runs (and runs well) on all sorts of those items and I can understand anyone's melancholy over the loss of the era when things were manufactured to last and NOT be discarded for the replacement (because they were designed to die and others be sold to you inside of five years from buying the first... whatever!)
****ALL of my items are listed on multiple local boards and locations, reserve the right to end an auction on any item prior to the closing time due to local sale.
AS TO SHIPPING---THIS IS A VEHICLE AUCTION. WE DO NOT SHIP CARS OR MOTORCYCLES. YOU PICK UP AND DO SO INSIDE OF A WEEK AFTER PAYING...and you PAY INSIDE OF 48 HOURS FROM CLOSE.
Finally---
I sell because I have relations with SEVEN very bright kids all getting very expensive educations! Don't bid expecting to 'renegotiate' a final price once you get the item. As I have said, have been doing this for a very long time. You will ship the item (every piece) back (on your dime) and get a full refund (item costs-NOT shippings) if there is something unsatisfactory to you on arrival of the item. That's how the big stores do it, hat's how I do it. You can't pull something I haven't already seen (or heard of) on Ebay before now. I'm honest, y items are the 'real deal' and my customers appreciate both my frank, traightforward nature and my dependability. In short, treat my customers like I like to be treated by all people who try to sell ME anything, ell.
All the best to each of you in your bidding and your futures. JD
The links below are for YouTube videos that will tell you everything I miss here...
I've owned this car since Sept of 2013 and driven it a ton for all sorts of travel.
I commuted to NC from NJ at least five or six times in that period, ost recently about five weeks ago.
I used it as regular local transport all during that time.
I've driven it to NY and SC and PA and MA and other places I don't remember.
I've put two new tires on eight months ago (now on the rear) the fronts are about 65% good remaining.
I've replaced the alternator, alve cover gasket, gnition wires and tuned it in the last 12 months.
The end of the wiring harness attaching to the alternator has been redone.
The car has done more sitting than driving over the last seven months (hence why the tires on the rear still look close to new) but I've kept it up and it runs well up to 90 mph.
(You are NOT allowed to ask how I know that...)
Look at the pictures and the video links for complete
knowledge on condition and considerations.
Looks good, rives great for the age, ERY easy to maintain and that's why I own these often. (this would be my fourth)
If you're looking for a Volvo 240 to restore or just kick until it gives up the ghost, here's plenty to consider in this one.
I've been servicing and rebuilding diesel Mercedes of the early '80's, W's from the 70's and Volvo's from the '90's for three decades now and I use those three platforms because
they
a) last forever
b) are exceptional cars to restore or just drive cheaply and
c) they can be deeply enjoyed at almost any level of 'running well'
The mileage on this one is completely unknown to me because the odometer wasn't working when I bought it! That didn't bother me because this became one of a stable of seven cars we own for college kids and myself to 'tool around the USA' in.
I can tell you that I wouldn't hesitate to drive this thing across the USA today, t runs that well.
There is NO unusual oil loss or smoke from the tailpipe.
(1/2qt of oil low every TEN tankfuls...MAYBE??? Really sound oil consumer.)
There's AC but I've never used it. Expect a new condenser is needed but I didn't care to do. It does come on but the belts squeal too much for me to use without actually paying maintenance attention to. If I can't fix something completely I usually don't use that feature until I can.
MANUAL sunroof (which I love more than anything else on this car!) but the crank needs a little 'playing with it' to work perfectly...it ALWAYS works in both directions, ust needs fiddling with the crank (OR you can replace the crank mechanism...again, t didn't bother me this way.)
During a 'tightening' of the speaker mount in the passenger door, he switch wiring for the front passenger window must have been jostled because it isn't working by any switch at the moment. That motor is fine, t DID work before the speaker was remounted it's just going to take removal of the door liner to find where the connection is grounding/undone. All other motors, indows that I can think of here work to my recollection. There are heated seats but a kid left those ON one day last winter and it drained the battery to zero on a sub-20 degree day. I removed the fuse for that circuit once, eplaced it to find that they were left on once in the summer and have since removed it on a permanent basis. Those should come right back when the fuse is replaced but...and this probably should go as a 'caveat emptor' statement for the entire car...you are buying a Volvo that is 25 years old. If you know these cars, ou know the quality of this example just from the photos and videos. If you are expecting new or "nothing needed to make it as good as new" please do us both a favor and skip this auction altogether.
This car was listed a few months ago and the high bidder 'disappeared' so I just kept it and made it run even better for a few more months.
See the pictures, ee the video. Ask questions if there's more you need to know.
I will take PAYPAL if you need to make the "holding deposit" (50% of total cost) in the first 48 hours without picking up in person. If you pay the 50% immediately, 'll hold it for up to 10 days.
IF YOU PAY FOR THE WHOLE CAR VIA PAYPAL I'M GOING TO ADD 4% TO THE TOTAL FOR THEIR FEES. (It stinks that they charge what they do but they're the only game -- can you say "monopoly" -- in town via Ebay these days.)
IF YOU BID, IN and DON'T PAY it will end badly for you...very, ery badly. I've seen to that before and I kinda like doing it. I see it as a service to protecting others from lousy bidders in cyberspace. Don't bid if you don't already have the cash in your pocket. Just don't do it!
If you show up inside of 48 hours from the close of auction (or send your shipper inside that window and pay fully prior to them arriving) I'll just charge you the close price and the handling fee listed below ($25 to help cover the listing fees on Ebay)
There's my 'usual disclaimer' below but you already have all the information you need on this one...if you're looking for a good used car that repairs cheap and easy OR you're looking for a place to start a 240 restoration, ust press 'buy it now' or make an offer.
If you own it, ou'll consider yourself lucky. I always have.
First video : https://youtu.be/rkukkUIKeZY
Second video : https://youtu.be/oX82rEOoksc
Third video : https://youtu.be/4s_jmslwEOg
Night video : https://youtu.be/yLlLL26OBD0
and here's a video from the first listing a few months ago... https://youtu.be/Zb2yB1IbDhg
Do not pay before receiving the invoice!
We accept Paypal (and cash in person) from EVERYONE.
Due to Ebay restrictions, nly PAYPAL.
(a few greedy folks have ruined that for all the others...)
Enjoy the auction!
please do note:
I have been selling on Ebay for over twenty years. Yes, ince the very beginning. This is my third seller I.D. (due to security breaches each and every time...) and my ex-wife is still selling on one of my previous ebay accounts where we had over 3000 feedbacks alone! I have THOUSANDS of satisfied customers but you MUST know...
* I save time by using beautiful, risp, i-res photos.
** I will describe any damage or noteworthy issues as best as I can immediately upon noting any issue.
AND--
***We don't clean or try to 'doctor' any item. I have actually been berated (very early in my 'ebay career') for "ruining the patina" on a 100 year old lamp that I lightly wiped down before shipping it. How I find an item is how you will receive it. If it has indications of age, hether that be tarnish-rust-corrosion-or mold blooms, ou will receive it exactly that way in order for you to do as you wish from that point. THIS INCLUDES VEHICLES FROM MY GARAGE!
With the exception of some new items I sell which I have purchased for myself and later found I wouldn't or couldn't use, LL of my items are old. Those old items are from sales where almost everything being sold has long since been out of production or they have thought up another 40 (or 400) improvements since the item was originally sold. If you're like me, hat may be exactly WHY you are looking for the older version (or even the 'original' version) of something. They usually work better AND are easier to fix and keep working longer! My house runs (and runs well) on all sorts of those items and I can understand anyone's melancholy over the loss of the era when things were manufactured to last and NOT be discarded for the replacement (because they were designed to die and others be sold to you inside of five years from buying the first... whatever!)
****ALL of my items are listed on multiple local boards and locations, reserve the right to end an auction on any item prior to the closing time due to local sale.
AS TO SHIPPING---THIS IS A VEHICLE AUCTION. WE DO NOT SHIP CARS OR MOTORCYCLES. YOU PICK UP AND DO SO INSIDE OF A WEEK AFTER PAYING...and you PAY INSIDE OF 48 HOURS FROM CLOSE.
Finally---
I sell because I have relations with SEVEN very bright kids all getting very expensive educations! Don't bid expecting to 'renegotiate' a final price once you get the item. As I have said, have been doing this for a very long time. You will ship the item (every piece) back (on your dime) and get a full refund (item costs-NOT shippings) if there is something unsatisfactory to you on arrival of the item. That's how the big stores do it, hat's how I do it. You can't pull something I haven't already seen (or heard of) on Ebay before now. I'm honest, y items are the 'real deal' and my customers appreciate both my frank, traightforward nature and my dependability. In short, treat my customers like I like to be treated by all people who try to sell ME anything, ell.
All the best to each of you in your bidding and your futures. JD