ORIGINAL PROJECT 1976 Datsun 280Z L28E N42 R200 M/T WITH PARTS

They're only original once. It's 2016 and she still is. This is a 1976 Datsun 280Z, S30 chassis, L28E original (as far as I know) engine with N42 block and head. I bought it in 2014 from the second owner who parked it in 2004 due to erratic running (sounded like simple AFM issues) and had let it sit since then, on concrete under a tarp and a carport. Long story short I don't have the time to work on it like it deserves but it is all original apart from a 90s-era engine rebuild by the first owner (one assumes to take unleaded gas). The only modifications from 100% stock I have found are an aftermarket radio, wiring for rear speakers, and what's probably a fuel pump switch on the center console. Original points distributor, original red-painted air filter cover, original fusible links, original Federal bumpers, original orange paint that still holds a pretty good shine. Have not tried to go after it with rubbing compound, this is just soap and water. It wears aftermarket wheels with "Z" center caps, body molding bump strips, and has been at some point converted to R134 AC from the original R-12. It cranks freely and enthusiastically, all lights and horn etc work, but does not start. Before even attempting to crank I changed the oil and coolant and pulled the plugs. Fuel pump is currently disconnected both at the battery and at the pump. There's probably resinous fuel in it because it wouldn't energize with 12V. The gas tank looks a lot newer than the rest of the car, is empty (or at least the gasoline is no longer liquid) and seems rust-free. There's paper towels in the exhaust and lower fuel tank opening to prevent colonization by critters or rust. The radiator looks OK, no visible corrosion. Cam lobe visible through the fill hole, same story. Have not had the valve cover off. The interior is in good condition, no major rips or tears in the leather. There are two cracks in the dash or the starting price would be higher... The left rear wheel is frozen and will not turn--probably a brake drum. The other wheels rotate freely but it probably will need new bearings. There's a crack in the windshield. The tires are terrible. Left rear is torn from frozen wheel (why it's sitting on the red roller) and the rest will hold air long enough to be winched up onto a trailer. The big question--RUST. There is NO RUST under the battery tray. There is minor rust on the rocker panels (cheaply replaceable). There is no apparent structural rust on the frame rails. I have pictures of these areas. Also needs a hose from the AFM, both this and the hose to the AFM were cracked and I only got around to replacing the hose from the filter assembly to the AFM with a NOS part. Comes with parts--receipts from the previous owner of parts installed and work performed, including the original classified ad he bought the car from, a buff book of the 280ZX, a replacement fuel pump, G3 external fuel filter, front fuel filter, transmission filter, brake master cylinder from a ZX (original was known bad and they're getting hard to find) and distributor from a ZX if the next owner wants to get away from points-based ignition. Will also supply the full factory service manual on USB key to the next owner for easier restoration...about $200 in parts all told. I have been told it has the R200 rear end but cannot verify. Original 4-speed transmission will at least try and shift between gears. So many 280Zs have become projects. 1976 was the last year of the 4-speed and just about the last year before the ZX took over. Get your time capsule back on the road. Clean out the fuel system and lines, run a new wire to the fuel pump, new belts and hoses, free the brake drum and redo the wheel bearings, then it's suspension time, maybe replace the fusible links with a modern fusing system, upgrade to a Monaco alternator.....or keep a good straight body, rip out the L28E and drop in a L28ET. Or a LS. Whatever you do with her, darn near the 300,000th S30 car ever made, she deserves to be back on the road and it just doesn't look like that can happen in my care. Comes with clean "blue" Texas title and an inescapable sense of potential. 100% as-is. (Payment via cashier's check, cash in person, or postal money order--$250 Paypal deposit required within 24 hours of winning the auction. Thanks for looking.)

On Sep-12-16 at 05:24:49 PDT, seller added the following information:

They're only original once. It's 2016 and she still is.
The BIG RUST QUESTION:
No rust under the battery tray. Floorpans look pretty good. Minor rust on the rocker panels, cheaply replaceable. No rust in the spare tire well. No rusted out rear hatch. A rust bubble around the rear right passenger window. No structural rust on the frame reinforcing rails. Overall everything appears to be light surface corrosion. Please see pictures! Photos of floorpan, rear hatch, and tire well added 9/12/16.
This is a 1976 Datsun 280Z, S30 chassis, L28E original (as far as I know) engine with N42 block and head. I bought it in 2014 from the second owner who parked it in 2004 due to erratic running (sounded like simple AFM issues) and had let it sit since then, on concrete under a tarp and a carport. Long story short I don't have the time to work on it like it deserves but it is all original apart from a 90s-era engine rebuild by the first owner (one assumes to take unleaded gas). The only modifications from 100% stock I have found are an aftermarket radio, wiring for rear speakers, and what's probably a fuel pump switch on the center console.
Original points distributor, original red-painted air filter cover, original fusible links, original Federal bumpers, original orange paint that still holds a pretty good shine. Have not tried to go after it with rubbing compound, this is just soap and water. It wears aftermarket wheels with "A" center caps, body molding bump strips, and has been at some point converted to R134 AC from the original R-12. It cranks freely and enthusiastically, all lights and horn etc work, but does not start.Before even attempting to crank I changed the oil and coolant and pulled the plugs.
Fuel pump is currently disconnected both at the battery and at the pump. There's probably resinous fuel in it because it wouldn't energize with 12V.
The gas tank looks a lot newer than the rest of the car, is empty (or at least the gasoline is no longer liquid) and seems rust-free.
There's paper towels in the exhaust and lower fuel tank opening to prevent colonization by critters or rust.
The radiator looks OK, no visible corrosion. Cam lobe visible through the fill hole, same story. Have not had the valve cover off.
The interior is in good condition, no major rips or tears in the leather. There are two cracks in the dash or the starting price would be higher...
The left rear wheel is frozen and will not turn--probably a brake drum. The other wheels rotate freely but probably will need new bearings.The tires are terrible. Left rear is torn from frozen wheel (why it's sitting on the red roller) and the rest will hold air long enough to be winched up onto a trailer. This is not a car to be flat towed or two-wheel towed.
There's a crack in the windshield.
Needs a hose from the AFM. Hose from filter box to AFM replaced recently with NOS part.
Comes with parts--receipts from the previous owner of parts installed and work performed, including the original classified ad he bought the car from, a buff book of the 280ZX, a replacement fuel pump, G3 external fuel filter, front fuel filter, transmission filter, brake master cylinder from a ZX (original was known bad and they're getting hard to find) and distributor from a ZX if the next owner wants to get away from points-based ignition.
Will also supply the full factory service manual on USB key to the next owner for easier restoration...about $200 in parts all told.
I have been told it has the R200 rear end but cannot verify. Original 4-speed transmission will at least try and shift between gears.
So many 280Zs have become projects or hackjobs... 1976 was the last year of the 4-speed and just about the last year before the ZX took over. Get your time capsule back on the road. Clean out the fuel system and lines, run a new wire to the fuel pump, new belts and hoses, free the brake drum and redo the wheel bearings, then it's suspension time, maybe replace the fusible links with a modern fusing system, upgrade to a Monaco alternator.....or keep a good straight body and frame, rip out the L28E and drop in a L28ET. Or a LS.
Whatever you do with her, darn near the 300,000th S30 car ever made, she deserves to be back on the road and it just doesn't look like that can happen in my care. Comes with clean "blue" Texas title and an inescapable sense of potential. 100% as-is.
(Payment via cashier's check, cash in person, or postal money order--$250 Paypal deposit required within 24 hours of winning the auction. Thanks for looking.)