Locost 7 / Lotus 7 Replica with Yamaha R1 power

This is a newly built Locost 7 / Lotus 7 / Lotus Super Seven Replica. A few requests for my build log. so here's a link:http://www. locostusa. com/forums/viewtopic. php?f=35&t=15216I've put over 700 hours and way too many dollars in building this little car. It is a "book frame" based on the Ron Champion book Build your own Sports Car that has a couple of extra frame members for mounting the Yamaha R1 engine. EBAY doesn't like the VIN assigned by SCDMV. Titled in SC as a 2014 Lotus 7 roadsterIt is a standard book frame built of 1" square tubing. fully mig welded and skinned in aluminum. I painted it Daytona Blue Metallic Lacquer on top of 2k primer. Power comes from a 2000 Yamaha R1 motorcycle engine. Transmission is the Yamaha 6 speed with new wet clutch pack. The R1 engine puts out over 140 horsepower in stock trim. New Quaife reverse box installed. Front suspension is fully adjustable with new ball joints and all new rod ends connected to Toyota Celica spindles. Carrera Adjustable coilovers and Celica disc brakes complete the package. Rear suspension is a 4 link setup with Panhard Bar and Carrera fully adjustable coilover shocks. Toyota Celica live axle with 3. 70 posi gear set. Steering is with an Appleton quick ratio manual rack. You can adjust the suspension easily for road or track and fine tune it to your driving style. Right now it's set up with zero toe in. 5 degrees of cater and les than 1 degree of negative camber. Steering is light and quick. it tracks beautifully and turns like it's on rails. Wheels and tires are Celica aluminum rims with Yokohama rubber. INCLUDING ALL OF MY EXTRASA set of Toyota steelies with a good but old set of tires that you can turn into black marks and smokeExtra muffler if you want to make it a little quieterGrant GT wood wheel with adapter for 3 bolt quick release that's on the carEnough Daytona Blue to do a full 2 coat resprayA quart of DupliColor clear gloss lacquerToyota welded rear diff and extra gear set (3. 90 gears I think; maybe 4. 30)This car went through the LENGTHY process of getting an assigned serial number. having DMV review my build log. and a final safety inspection by a DMV agent. I sign the title over to you and you're good to go. No ReserveLots of questions over the past couple of days. Here are some answers. I'm selling it to make space and provide funding for another build. I enjoy the process. This is deep in a list of projects that I've built through the years. Next up is getting back to work on my 64 Mini Miles on the R1 was a tad over 6000. It's a 2001 motor. carbed. I think 140ish horsepower in stock trimNo issues with the gearbox. It goes through the gears up and down with or without the clutchTire size and rear gear ratio were a compromise. A different gearset would lower rpm at speed. but remember bike engines don't have the torque of car engines. Getting off the line wouldn't be great. So my compromise was 3. 70 gear set ad 14 inch tires. It limits top speed to about 100mph. It gets up to speed REALLY QUICKLYFor racing. go with a 13 inch tire. It changes the effective rear gear set up a bit for a faster launch. It will drop top speed to about 90 or a little less. depending on your tire sizeDo I think it's reliable? Yes. the mechanicals are new. wheel and axle bearings. brakes. master cylinders. Jump in and go. Would I drive it across country? No. I've done long distances in an open car before. It's just not fun. However. it would make it if you just feel like going deaf. getting sunburned. wind burned. and freezing your tail off. Why did I put a low profile screen on it? I was planning to race it more than street it. Aerodynamically these little cars are bricks. I wanted to cut down on drag. And didn't want to put wipers on it. Why no diagonal or restraint bar on the roll bar? Neither were required in the Solo rules. What is the restraint attached to? The 3/8 thick steel angled bracket is through bolted through the rear main chassis rail and backed up by a steel plate. Why didn't I put a Kirkey seat in it? I wanted the more classic bench look. Just personal preference. Will it pass SCCA tech? Solo yes. wheel to wheel no. For tracking it will need a diagonal brace on the roll bar. What do you mean no reserve. the price starts at $7500? For this car. that's cheap. Don't like my price. nbsp;build one yourself. Go price a R1 motor. Quaife box. Appleton rack. Wilwood pedals. Afco master cylinders. circle track control arms. and a Celica Supra donor car. Put a value on a year's worth of weekends if you're quick. three year's if you're not. Tight Lines!More questions from yesterday:Why not start the auction at $100 with no reserve? I'm selling it. not starting a charity. It is what it is and it will sell or I'll play with it this summer. Why do you say 100 top speed. R1's are a lot faster than that? Aerodynamics and gearing. It may be a tad faster. but I'd bet not. If you've never done 100 in a tiny car with your butt 5 inches off the ground. it's a heart pounding experience. How does it drive? Let's see. The steering is very light. It turns easily with the little 10" Mountney wheel. just effortless. Acceleration is great. Driving it hard is easy; driving it easy is hard. I don't know if that makes sense to everyone or not. Tach it up. dump the clutch and it blasts off like a rocket. Try to be really gentle and feather the clutch takes some practice. It goes up and down through the gears with or without the clutch. That's the beauty of the dog box transmission. Do you have all the parts for the coil spring clutch? I do. I have both light and stiff springs for the clutch kit. There's a lot of tunability you can do by swapping springs. How would it compare to a prepped Miata? It would eat a Miata for lunch and not even hiccup. Keep the questions coming. Last updateSome interesting trade offers coming my wayIf you want it. you need to bid. it's not coming back to ebay any time soon