race, street rod, drag car, fast, modified, muscle, 350 rocket, cutlass, regal

FAST! Chassis has about 52000 miles. No speedometer or odometer. Tach only. Less than 2000 miles on drivetrain.
*Engine in car is a strong rebuilt 1978 350 olds v8 with holley 4150 650 cfm 4bbl carb, delbrock performer intake and cam, ored .30 over, ual roller timing chain, 0,000 volt coil and modified hei distributor. melling high volume oil pump, luminum under drive crank pulley, edman 3 inch headers, nd 3 inch dual exhaust with California turbos.
*Fuel system is a trunk mount plastic 15 gal. deep sump fuel cell with steel braided line, nodized npt fittings, ram canister fuel filter, summit 120 gph electric fuel pump and regulator.
*Transmission is a turbo 350 with a B&M 2500 stall street/strip converter.
*Rear end was built using the Eaton lsd clutch style carrier, imkin bearings, nd Richmond 4.11 ring and pinion.
*Chassis electrical simplified with a Painless street rod wiring harness. Car is streetable. Lights work, iper motor needs wired. Wire is to the motor just never hooked up. (I don't drive it in the rain.) Simple gauge cluster. No interior other than original dash and racing buckets with 5 point harnesses everything is painted gloss black.
*Extra engine is a 69 olds 350 rocket with about 70,000 on stock long block but runs great. Intake is a custom ported aluminum wieland intake with a 5 1/2 inch rise to the carb base. Carb is a custom tuned holley 950 cfm double pumper with very little use. Brand new never fired MSD distributor, ual roller timing chain, igh volume oil pump with deep sump pick up, xtra capacity deep sump oil pan, igh torque racing starter (barely used), fi certified harmonic balancer and flywheel, high output alternator with under drive pulley, nd custom built powder coated 4 inch headers. Even as a stock lower end the carb is a $1000 carb with $1000 worth of work done to it. The bolt on parts on this engine are worth a several thousand dollars. It is bad to the bone.
*Spare parts include 2 radical cams. One .602 inch intake lift slightly used. The other a brand new .590 lift. Extra set of custom heads with adjustable studs, ushrod guideplates, nd bridge straps, versized valves, eavy duty valve springs, n extra set of heavy duty valve springs and prototype valves and springs if you ever want to build the baddest set of cast iron 350 olds heads you can get. Also has extra undersized nodular crank. Lots of holley parts/jets/needles/seals/accelerator pump cams and diaphragms. Brand new oil pump drive shafts and new distributor gears (one new bronze gear)/springs/weights plus hei parts. Set of dead blow main cap supports, ew head studs, ots of gaskets, alley pans for intake, il filter relocation kits with many redistribution block options, tock timing chain/pulleys/flywheel/valve covers/oil pan, ew set of Moroso front coil springs to lower front of car 2 inches, xtra front clip and grill for car.
*Front inner headlights are customized with a screen. I do not have the tubing anymore but they ran to the dual horns on the air cleaner to force air into the carb. They do make a big difference.
*The only real faults are there are some blemishes in the paint. Stuff happens over the years. The worst is the rear passenger quarter has a spot where some polyurethane was splattered on it that would need touched up if you care. Other than that it is small blemishes and with a wet sand and wheel it would look spectacular. The body has never been wrecked. I was not going for show car. I was going for hard core sleeper.
* Again the interior is two racing buckets which are actually very comfortable. Maybe its because I just love to be sitting in them. The dash is toggle switches for fan, uel pump, nd wipers (which again are not wired to the motor but the motor worked ten years ago, he wire is ran to the motor, ust never hooked up, iper arms are in a tote. Power windows work but need wired. I only drive it on nice days so I hot wire the windows down and run it. but a simple switch would solve it. It has a tach with integrated gauges, nd turn and high beam indicators all mounted on a piece of sheet steel cut to fit the face of the dash. Ignition, igh beam, nd turn signals are still in the column and has original dash skin in great shape.
*The rear tires are pretty well hit. I admit I did some burn outs. But it does them effortlessly. It is a ongoing project as anyone with a need for speed should understand but this car is ready to drive and all the ground work is laid out for a full drag car. It is a tire hazer but with a set of sticky 275/65's on the rear it hooks up awesome. It is made for racing and cruising. It has a small drip on trans pan seal. Has new seals in torque converter and tail shaft. If i have time i am going to fix it. I have the gasket but cannot guarentee i will have time to do it. It has never been driven low on fluid. It is a project car that can be driven immediately with a set of streetable tires. It has some flaws. I went to college for automotive and have been wrenching since i was five. All the work has been done with a thought of I will never sell this car so it has been done with love. I have gone the extra mile every chance i got. I focused on making it fast over pretty but it still looks damn good.
I've owned the car for 24 years and had a blast with it and taken good care of it. There is no rust on frame, ody, r undercarriage. It has always been garage kept and hasen't seen a winter in 22 years. Don't drive it much anymore. Needs a good home where it will be driven and appreciated. It's very fast and a whole lot of fun. Over $30,000 invested. A lot more over all but with the parts and extra engine this car is ready to play. If the stock lower end of the engine on the stand were rebuilt with i-beam rods, nd forged pistons the cam and valve train along with all that is already on the engine it will be around 500 horse. It is hard for me to let it go for any price but who ever gets will be getting a great package at a great deal.